Umlando zokugqoka: zokubhukuda kwekhulu le-18

Fashion, njengazo zonke ezinye izinqubo kwezenhlalo, kuyinto cyclical. Phakathi zom sokuntenga komnotho ezweni sihlalise elilandelayo, lapho ukubusa austerity noma ukuziphatha nokuthembela kufika inkathi imikhuba mahhala futhi pretentiousness. Yemfashini kwekhulu le-18 kuyinto ushintsho kancane kancane kusukela okunethezeka angenakuvinjwa Baroque kuya Rococo isitayela, egcwele igama elisha ebhokisini isiko ebukwayo, futhi ubufakazi ngqo lokhu kokubili imvunulo iduna nensikazi kwekhulu le-18.

Rococo Fashion

Igama lesi sitayela livela French futhi lisho "umhlobiso ngesimo igobolondo." izici zayo kukhona nenhle zokuhlobisa Rococo, intuthuko, fragility, Ukwanelisa inkanuko futhi affectation ezithile. Kulesi isitayela, ngeke ubone imigca lecondzile, basuke engonxantathu futhi abushelelezi. Futhi naphezu kweqiniso lokuthi Rococo - sokuhamba kusukela ubukhazikhazi egumbini, namanje kuveza kwekubuswa imfashini ahlukile, okwakunginika ukuphela French Revolution. An ekahle kulesi siqondiso sasibhekwa njengophawu lokuthi ngalé kwenkinga. Bobabili imvunulo kwabesifazane nabesilisa kwekhulu le-18 bephetha imikhuba elinendawo yena wabizela iminyakazo ethile futhi Gait, kuthiwa phelelisa beqondiswa elibukhali abeluleki nothisha nangesizotha. Ikilasi wobunxiwankulu ku Inkampani isikhundla kahle eliphezulu, kodwa uyashiywa imikhuba emihle ebukhosini. Ngekhulu le-18 wehlela emlandweni njengoba engu-Chivalry, le minuet, powder lace.

Izici izingubo Rococo

Zokugqoka kwekhulu le-18 ayevelele ngumuntu ngalé okuchachambile, emahlombe ewumngcingo, futhi mncane, okhalweni some, izinqulu oyindilinga umugqa, nepyshnoy hairdo. Kafushane, ngendlela njengabesifazane lanqoba. Ngisho imvunulo besilisa kwekhulu le-18 wabheka njengabesifazane kanye ayengayisebenzisa ukunikeza namandla ocansini abesilisa ababhekwa ngayo. Izinto ezisetshenziswa velvet, usilika ezibizayo futhi esindayo, brocade nelineni elicolekile lace. Nezingubo, njengoba umthetho, shining ngegolide amagugu, wayevame ukusebenzisa amatshe esikhundleni izinkinobho. By the way, imfashini Rococo ukubekezelela ezinikezwa. Ayikho owesifazane self-ukuhlonipha bengafuni ukugqoka ngubo efanayo kabili.

Isudi Incazelo zabesilisa

Uma ukhumbula ezincwadini kanye nomlando, wobulili namandla kuhluke predilection esikhethekile izingubo amahle neze kunabayeni e ladies. ubulungu okuphoqelekile okwenziwa ezikhungweni timphahla tekubhukusha European owesilisa kwekhulu le-18 kwaba crystal isikibha esimhlophe ezenziwe ngelineni elicolekileyo. Wayebe abakhukhumele imikhono lace cuffs kanye umqhewu. Front ke lihlotshiswe a frill - ruffles. Njengoba jacket wagqoka trace. Kwaba ewumngcingo, futhi jika senziwa ezimibalabala kasilika indwangu, izinto ezinemikhono emide, abethela ngesikhathi umphetho indololwane ezindaweni eziningana. Ngokuvamile, West laligcwele efekethisiwe. Iziqobosho esisogwini umugqa okhalweni maphakathi nesifuba ukuze singathwesi ukufihla frill. Kamuva, waba phezulu ithangi, futhi emuva eqala ukudala kusuka ezahlukene indwangu - indwangu - futhi yabe seyaziwa ngokuthi "Weston" noma "Vest" futhi ngakolunye uhlangothi Channel - "veskout".

izakhi okusha wezigqoko besilisa

izingubo amadoda eziphezulu kwakubhekwa justacorps. Ngasekuqaleni kwekhulu le-18 iye yashintshwa yaba ama-Abhi justacorps. Kwaba baqaphe, okhalweni Friend nasesifubeni, waba imibimbi ezimbalwa, emphethweni ku ezivuzayo uhlangothi futhi slot ne-mbumbulu, kodwa ngempela lubonakale phezu phambi bopha. Abhi bathunga umbukiso we satin noma usilika, ohlangothini emaphaketheni wenza efekethisiwe enhle zegolide nezesiliva izindikimba. Cuffs senziwa ukwaziswa okufanayo njengoba lowo of Vesta, esigqokwa Abhi. Njengoba ingxenye kwekhulu le-18 yesibili, into phezulu ikhabethe amadoda kwakungu esigodlweni izingubo kuphela. Kepha phansi ke ibhangqwe Abhi futhi justacorps senziwa ukugqoka culottes - ibhulukwe emincane futhi esifushane, efana nebhulukwe ukumboza ngamadolo abethela ezansi izinkinobho. Kwamanye tinkhulumo, ungase ubone emaphaketheni. Kusukela Pantaloons ezicukuthwaneni okwakumelwe bafake amasokisi amhlophe wenza kasilika span, kanye kit wobunxiwankulu babe amasokisi kuneminye imibala. Imvunulo besilisa kwekhulu le-18 futhi wawuhlanganisa izimfanelo ezifana amagilavu, ibhande inkemba isikhathi eside noma esifushane cut amajazi. Winter ikhithi kulekelelwa imikhono amasokisi - amasokisi amade ngaphandle amathe, lapho ufake izicathulo.

Ozinikezele ikhabethe Rococo

imvunulo zabesifazane kusukela ngekhulu le-18 benza ucansi bubuhle wobuciko langempela, Umfanekiso enhle, obucayi ngomusa. Nezingubo kwakunjani zokulala, kanye nemibala egqamile. Inenekazi embuka besifazane: emahlombe obucayi, okhalweni encane, waphetha okhalweni. izakhi okuphoqelekile zokubhukuda zabesifazane kwekhulu le-18 babe chemise ephansi, corset nge hoops, okuyinto isiketi, falling emphethweni ububanzi amanga ngokukhululekile. Hoops eFrance, eyaziwa nangokuthi "petticoat", eyenziwe nezimo willow Amahlumela noma whalebone. Bona babekwa imiqulu ezakheke ehlukahlukene kanye ezelekene lendwangu quilted. Petticoat Kungase ahlukahlukene, kube ezimise okweqanda, eziyindilinga ngisho tapered. Ngokuvamile, insimbi emise hoops yasakazwa ukugqokwa aristocrats, kodwa abafazi namadodakazi onxiwankulu babe iziketi kancane starched njengoba petticoat kwakungelona injabulo ezishibhile. Igqokela izintokazi ekhiqizwa plumes ukuthi basuke noma ithungwe emahlombe noma okhalweni.

onobuhle eziningana igqoka

izingubo Lower ngokuthi "frepon", futhi phezulu - "Thobekile". Esikhathini hems lokuqala wayewabusisa ngokucebile ukuhlotshiswa ngesimo efekethisiwe, engxenyeni engenhla bodice kwaba ewumngcingo kakhulu, ngoba yafakwa corset ngezingwegwe futhi izintambo zezicathulo. Thobekile ukuthi wahosha kwesingezansi. On emaphethelweni imbobo senziwa efekethisiwe ubuhle Amazing, bodice awo abethela ngesikhathi enza isifuba multi-neminsalo lacing. Kulomkhakha wekuvuselela, kwanqunywa ukuba athwale neckline ngokujulile ngesimo isikwele, ihlobe lace. Yena sleeves ithungwe emgqeni ehlombe futhi owayenesandla ehlotshiswe lace aluhlaza. Ngasentanyeni tie isikhafu emoyeni.

Enye imodeli igqoka kwesikhathi kwaba kontush. Lena ezibanzi, neotreznoy okhalweni ingubo eside ne pleats ngemuva Watteau. Kwakuthinta ezigugile ngaphandle ibhande ezigugile ngaphansi isiketi ukuze uzimele. Kontush kwaba ezimbili zama - jika ukuthi ubamba kuze kudabuke umhlane esifubeni sakhe, noma eyodwa-ucezu, ngaphandle imbobo. Okwenza lezi izingubo esetshenziswa usilika, satin noma ephuma kabili kasilika izindwangu, ngezinye izikhathi velvet. Imibala kungaba ngenye indlela ehluke kakhulu. Kusukela maphakathi nekhulu le-18 is kakhulu mfushane, base lomshado kuphela ekhaya. Futhi emgwaqeni egqoka kwabo kuphela abameleli amakilasi aphansi. Lezi zintokazi babegqoke elikhanyayo kasilika amasokisi womfekethisi igolide noma isiliva.

Izicathulo nezinye izesekeli

Njengoba Amadoda ayegqoke izicathulo noma izicathulo ayisicaba buckles noma izicathulo. Abesifazane babegqoka izicathulo ezivulekile, ngezinye izikhathi backless. Zazenziwe satin Indwangu noma isikhumba mncane kakhulu anemibala ehlukene kanye waba isithende high. Ikhabethe madoda isigqoko imfashini kwaba hat-cocked. Kodwa uyithandile kakhulu ucansi buthaka, njengoba kufanele bagqoke khona ngezinye izikhathi. By the way, amadoda akuvamile egqoka ekhanda lakhe, futhi ngokuvamile ahlala indololwane.

izigqoko zabesifazane nazo ibhekwa njengezwekazi izimpawulo ekhethekile. Ngezinye izikhathi ezigugile phezu isigqoko cocked, ikakhulukazi uma uhamba. Ekhaya, ladies zikanokusho egqoka nezigqoko.

kamuva Rococo

Umlando 18th suit ekhulwini uthi ekupheleni fashion ekhulwini siye sashintsha ngokuphelele. 70s zaziphawuleka ngokungabi kwekubuswa isitayela English. Lokhu kusho lula, nobukhali amafomu kanye nemibala. Kulokhu, owokuqala ishintshile akusiye owesifazane, futhi suit womuntu. Ekuqaleni isitayela English waqala ukuba agqoke abamele onxiwankulu omkhulu, sabe sesithatha ebusheni bakhe ahlukile, kahle ke, imfashini uye wathuthela enkantolo owesilisa izingubo. izikhulu British, ngokungafani kuya isiFulentshi, ayazise induduzo yakhe. Ngakho-ke, izingubo ukhululekile kakhulu ukunquma futhi ilula.

Imvunulo leduna isigamu kwekhulu le-18 yesibili

Zokugqoka lalinabashumayeli ijazi indwangu eluhlaza, waistcoat ophuzi-non-eside, ibhulukwe yesikhumba, amabhuzu aphakeme, ethole cuffs kanye nezigqoko nxazonke emise. Phela, lo suit ekuqaleni kubhekwe isisekelo ucezu suit umgibeli, kodwa kamuva kwaduma Europe njengoba bafake abayitoho amalungu abavelele emphakathini. Nokho, bokungamele ukugqoka inkemba. izindwangu amnyama, kuhlanganise usilika esetshenziselwa yokuthunga ingubo. Wayema, futhi kwezinye tinkhulumo, vula phansi collar, kusuka okhalweni kwehle izibuya insaliwe.

Uma thina ukulandelela fashion leduna isigamu kwekhulu le-18 yesibili, singabona ukuthi suit yabekwa ukuguqulwa njalo. Esinye isici wezigqoko umsuka ngesiNgisi, wangena imfashini European le nkathi kwaba redingote. Lokhu outerwear kwadingeka izibuya eqondile itshali collar. Ekuqaleni, frock elingenamikhono, efana elingenamikhono, wakhonza izingubo ngoba ogibele. Esinye isici Ingubo isigamu kwekhulu le-18 yesibili kwaba ukuthi amahembe babé kulula: baye ayisesemikhulu cuffs futhi jabot kade lingaphansi aluhlaza futhi voluminous. Ngaphezu ezimhlophe, la madoda aqala ukugqoka ezimthende amasokisi kusengutsheni yoboya. Phela band yayidumile futhi ethunga amajazi. Futhi, lapho ziyakufinyezwa (ngaphandle ubulili) uwumnikazi wenkampani. Ngenxa amadoda izicathulo babegqoka izicathulo ezithambile nge buckles lensimbi ezinkulu, futhi ogibele - amabhuzu, amabhuzu.

izingubo zabesifazane (18 th Century, isigamu 2nd)

Ladies kuya maphakathi nekhulu babe ekujaheni ukulandela ubulili namandla futhi balahle izingubo lesidze ekhatsi isitayela Rococo. Nokho, imvunulo zesifazane ngokuya ziba yinkimbinkimbi kakhudlwana kokubili Decor futhi zingabonisi ngalé. Crinoline atholwe amafomu amasha futhi babe okweqanda. Ngenxa yalokho iziketi emelelwa insimbi okweqanda kakhulu welulela emaceleni. Front futhi isiketi ezingemuva ukuthi isicaba. Njengoba wazi, emi eceleni intokazi ingubo kwakungenakwenzeka. igqoka Nemikhosi zambozwa mass imicibisholo kanye nemiklamo ye kudabuke futhi emaphethelweni ukusikiwa nge kubangela ruffles ka lace. Lezi izingubo zazaziswa iyinto enkulu esigodlweni Louis XVI noMarie-Antoinette.

Lezi zokubhukuda emangalisayo kwekhulu le-18 (bheka isithombe esihlokweni) athathwa futhi egcekeni Russian Umbusikazi uCatherine II. Kule nkathi ikhabethe ukunikeza indawo ekuseni polonaises wathola elalakhiwe isiketi kanye bodice, ukuthi esigqokwa phezu ingubo casement. Wayefanele backrest neotreznaya, ehlanganisa izingxenye ezintathu. Iphansi ayeqondile. Ngesikhathi indawo lapho lonke lahlanganisa emashalofini, ngathatha lace, okwadala inhlangano. ingubo yakhe kwakuba draperies ongaphambili omise. Polonaise kangaka uyakuthanda ozinikezele wokuziphilisa, ukuthi necebo fun ekhethekile - ayimpoqo ekuseni kuhamba phambi ongakhetha yakhe.

Izici imfashini: ukulungiswa

Ekupheleni kwekhulu le-18, umphetho kancane mfushane - "ukuze ithambo". Kulezi igqoka izintokazi bahamba ekuphileni kwansuku zonke. Ngokujivaza ngokwabo emahlombe lace izimpawulo. Ladies suit equkethwe eziningi izesekeli: .. Gloves, izambulela, nezigaxa, izigqoko ngezimpaphe, ubuhlalu, iziqhano zokuhloba, njll Ngasekupheleni kwekhulu fashion amaningi aqala ukulishiya leli ozimele besiyoba sikhulu, ekuphileni kwansuku zonke waqala ukungena ezingaphezu kuka ukuncishiselwa dress elula. Izibalo zikhombe ithonya imfashini isiNgisi, okuyinto wagcina efikile, futhi izingubo sowesifazane.

imvunulo abesifazane IsiZulu sika

Izingubo ezivela Albion imigqa esithambile. Baphuthunyiswe thunga Indwangu ukukhanya shades olubucayi. Ozimele, emahhulahhubhu, crinoline esikhathini esidlule. Okhalweni lezi izingubo up ngamasentimitha ambalwa njengebhuqu izambatho lasendulo. Skirt Jets kanye falling in emphethweni elithambile, okuholela isitimela amancane. phezulu cutout bodice imikiswe Ufaka isikhafu esithambile njengoba draperies. nabagibeli imvunulo kwakuba isiketi ahlukene nebhantshi, efana elingenamikhono womuntu. izicathulo zabesifazane zazenziwe brocade, satin noma velvet. Isithende yayiphezulu kanye sikwele. Ngalezi amasokisi zazigaxwa ukukhanya amathoni.

The French Revolution Fashion

Kunezinguquko eziyinhloko ekuphileni kwezinceku umphakathi French esenzeka kwekhulu le-18, waba nethonya elinamandla endleleni imfashini. Kwakukhona amaqembu bezombangazwe nabasekeli ngamunye wabo waqala ukuba bagqoke izingubo ezikhethekile, ekhombisa okungokwakhe nayo. Abasekeli inkosi waqhubeka ugabise igqoka elibizayo umbala okhanyayo, kanye Republican - ukuba agqoke okuluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka nge emphethweni abukhali. Jacobins esikhundleni kwabathinta iDemo waqala ukugqoka ibhulukwe eside, jackets esifushane futhi abomvu "Phrygian" cap. Ukuthi sasifanekisela inkululeko. Ezicukuthwaneni babekholelwa ukuthi isembatho onjalo uyokwenza ukujwayelana nabantu kubo. Ngalesi sikhathi, wanyamalala kanye wigs, powder, kwamagoda, neminsalo. Phakathi nale nkathi, ukuncipha dandies waseParis labangela ukuqala komkhakha abesilisa nabesifazane babegqoka izingubo Antique, lokhu yokulingisa amaRoma namaGreki asendulo. On laba besifazane kwakumele okungenani izingubo. Njengoba phansi izingubo yafakwa tights inyama-ezinemibala, futhi phezulu kuyinto esobala kakhulu futhi egeleza muslin amabhantshi.

Zokugqoka kwekhulu le-18 e-Russia

Kuze kube ngekhulu le-18 kuzo zonke izizinda zokuphila egqoka bendabuko izingubo isiRashiya, kodwa wawusiza basePoland ingubo French. imfashini European eRussia alethwe kaKesari, uPeter Omkhulu. Ngemva suit yalo muntu ngekhulu le-18 e-Russia, kuphela abameleli kwamadoda asebukhosini, waba ngaphezulu noma ngaphansi efana okungenhla Europe. Abavamile futhi baqhubeka ngigqoke imvunulo yesizwe, eyayihlanganisa ihembe, izimbobo kanye elingenamikhono for amadoda kanye sundress nehembe kwabesifazane. Phakathi amamodeli amahembe yayithandwa "golosheyki", ababengenawo a collar. Phezu kwabo sermyaga bakhathale, ibhantshi lakhe nebhantshi lakhe (elingenamikhono zonke izinhlobo). Ngenxa izicathulo abantu abavamile babegqoka izimbadada. Ngemva ukwethulwa amasiko European imvunulo Russian kwekhulu le-18 ngoba izikhulu zabo bobubili ubulili kuyinto cishe izakhamuzi zaseBosnia zifana kusuka pan-European.