Tragedy ku Everest ngo-1996, 11 Meyi: A Chronicle esibuhlungu, ababambiqhaza, abasinde

umgibeli ngamunye waziwa kahle ukuthi iziqongo entabeni obude idlula 8000 amamitha, ingozi ofayo ukuba abanqobi yabo. Ezimweni emoyeni rarefied zomzimba womuntu ilahlekelwa ikhono alulame ukuthi ngokuvamile kubangela ukufa. Tragedy ku Everest ngoMeyi 1996 waba salokhu.

Izisulu zala iziqongo ekhohlisayo

Ngu ukuqondana ngeshwa, lonke 1996 kwafika ikhasi esidabukisayo emlandweni ekunqotshweni Everest. Ngenkathi, abantu nanhlanu balahlekelwa ukuphila kwabo Storming entabeni ekhohlisayo. Yehlelwa ohlangothini enkingeni futhi ezimbili commercial ekhuphuka iqembu "Intaba Madness" futhi "consultant adventure."

Njengoba indaba inhlekelele phezu Everest ngo-1996, bona sakhiwe eziyisithupha wazibonela iziqondiso abaqeqeshiwe, Sherpas eziyisishiyagalombili - bendawo waqasha njengoba guides, nabalindisango, nesithupha amakhasimende ikhokhwe ayisithupha nanhlanu namakhulu zamadola ithuba ukudlala ukufa emithambekeni ezineqhwa. Ukuze emihlanu ekhuphuka yaphela kabuhlungu.

Ngenxa nhlekelele saqala ku Everest ngo-1996

Ekuseni ngo-May 10, lapho imisebe yelanga azikakabi embozwe entabeni iphakama, amadoda amathathu anesibindi ahlasela Everest - isiqongo, okuyinto antante 8,848 amamitha ngaphezu kolwandle. amaqembu Kwaholela babe ochwepheshe sina Rob Hall ne-Scott Fischer. Babazi ukuthi yonke indawo engaphandle amamitha 8,000, ubizwa ngokuthi "indawo sokufa", futhi baqonde ukuthi kungani kwakudingeka ukulungiselela ngokucophelela abahlanganyeli kanye bephakamisa mkhosi okuqinile imithetho, ikakhulukazi uma kuziwa enjalo iphakama ekhohlisayo like Mount Everest. Ngo-1996, kungaba inhlekelele lokho kwashaqisa abalandeli ezemidlalo, kwafika ikhasi omnyama emlandweni izintaba emhlabeni.

Pho wabonisa labo nenhlanhla ngokwanele ukuze bahlale bephila, ngoba ukuhlasela waqala kubhekene nezinkinga. Uhlelo ephakamisa, ngokuqinile ulawula isikhathi adingekayo ukunqoba ingxenye emthambekeni ngasinye ngokushesha siphukile, kwacaca ukuthi, ukuthi sherpas ungazange naleso ukufakwa umgoqo intambo endleleni iqembu. Lapho ekugcineni efika endaweni ezibaluleke kakhulu, okuthiwa Stage, uHillary, kukhona abalahlekelwe esingaphezu kwehora isikhathi esibalulekile ngenxa ekuqongeleleni abaqwali bezinye.

Ngesikhathi abaqwali ube umthetho esithi, "ngemva schedule, ungalindeli enkingeni - ubuye!" Amaqembu amane ibhizinisi ikhasimende uStuart Hutchison, John Tasco, Frank Fischbeck kanye Lou Kazishke balandela lesi seluleko esihlakaniphile futhi waqhubeka ephila. Abaqwali asele baqhubeka nohambo lwabo. Ngu entathakusa ezinhlanu yafinyelela ingqopha-mlando esilandelayo, etholakala endaweni engamamitha 8350 amamitha kanye ubizwa ngokuthi "Balcony". Kukhona futhi wabhekana ukubambezeleka, kulokhu ngenxa yokuntuleka umshwalense. Kodwa ukunqoba iziqongo babe amamitha ayikhulu namashumi kuphela. Yena hlaza, silhouetted ngokucacile ngokumelene okwenza we sky blue ephelele, futhi lokhu kusondelana lihlasela umqondo ephuzile imizwa ingozi.

phezulu

eyikhulu amamitha - kungcono a lot noma kancane? Yalinganisa ukusuka endlini eseduze coffee shop, into esondelene kakhulu, kodwa lapho sikhuluma i emthambekeni cishe mpo, emoyeni rarefied futhi lokushisa -40 ° C, kuleso simo bangakwazi yokwelula phakathi infinity ezineqhwa. Ngakho-ke, the last nomninikhaya okokuqala kuyingxenye enzima kakhulu umqansa zonke umgibeli entabeni wakunqoba siqu, isivinini abazikhethele esekelwe impilo yabo namandla okukhuthazela.

Mayelana ihora kosuku ku Everest rose Russian Anatoly Boukreev - i umgibeli abanolwazi, Master Ezigcwalisiwe wezeMidlalo. Waqale unyawo kule isiqongo ngo-1953 futhi kamuva iwine nanye abayisishiyagalombili-thousanders zomhlaba. Kabili yena yanikezelwa ngoba isibindi siqu. Ngenxa izimpilo yakhe eziningi ngisindisa, kuhlanganise phakathi emqansweni Mount Everest (angabhekani nosizi lokukhulelwa 1996). Anatoly wabulawa ngonyaka kamuva ngendathane ezintabeni zaseHimalaya.

Eziningana ngemuva Bukreeva phezulu ebonakala ezimbili - iklayenti commercial John Brakauer futhi Umhlahlandlela kusuka "Consultants adventure" Andy Harris. kamuva isigamu sehora kwangena umhlahlandlela "Intaba Madness" uNeil Beydlman nekhasimende yabo Martin Adams. Okunye abahlanganyeli ukukhuphuka kude ngemuva.

uzalo belated

Ngokwesimiso sansuku, umnqamulajuqu kokuqala Uzalo esimisiwe ngehora lesibili, kodwa ngalesi sikhathi iningi abahlanganyeli ukunyukela kungazange kufinyelele phezulu, futhi lapho, ekugcineni, baphumelela, abantu kakhulu eside ngename futhi izithombe. Ngakho, isikhathi iye irretrievably elahlekile. Lena enye yezindlela okwakubonakala izimbangela umcimbi, manje eyaziwa ngokuthi inhlekelele Mount Everest ngo-1996.

Kuphela mayelana eyishumi nesithupha amahora ekamu base, kwabikwa ukuthi kwakubulawa zonke abaqwali kukhona phezulu. Okokuqala zaqala ukwehlela Anatoly Boukreev, ngenxa bonke ababekhona, wahlala isikhathi eside ngesikhathi ibambene esiphezulu futhi angisakwazi ngaphandle oksijini zokwenezela. abangababi bemisebenzi yaso kwakufanele iphindele Camp IV - wokugcina yokupaka ngaphambi phezulu, ukwehlisa umoya ngiqhubeke ukusiza abanye, ukuthatha amathangi umoya-mpilo futhi thermos itiye hot.

Ngo ekuthunjweni sezintaba

Abasinda nenhlekelele ngonyaka 1996 ku Everest watshelwa kamuva ukuthi ekuqaleni Uzalo Anatoly sezulu sawohloka kakhulu, umoya rose, ukubonakala sawohloka. Yiba isiqongo okwengeziwe kwakungenakwenzeka, kanye neqembu lonke futhi wakudiliza. Scott Fisher wehla nge Sherpa okuthiwa Lopsang.

Ukufinyelela "Balcony", kanye 8230 metres, ngakho baphoqeleka ukuba bahlale ngenxa isimo esibi kakhulu zempilo Fisher owayengumbonisi ngaleso sikhathi kwaba khona ukuvuvukala esindayo zobuchopho - into engavamile emachibini kakhulu. Wathumela Lopsanga ukuqhubeka njengoba wehla, futhi, uma kungenzeka, ukuze uthole usizo.

Lapho Sherpas safinyelela Camp IV, sithola kuwo abantu kwakungafanele isikulungele ukushiya itende, kube emuva emthambekeni wentaba phakathi lenyuke ngamaphesenti isikhathi sokuthula sangaphambi kwesivunguvungu. Ithemba lokugcina waphathiswa Bukreeva, kodwa ngalesi sikhathi wamonyuka kusuka iqhwa ekuthunjweni abantu abathathu - Sandy Pittman, Sharlottu Foks, futhi Tim Madsen. Kuphela phakathi ngakusasa Ngakwazi Umqansa ukuze Fisher, kodwa usefile. Isidumbu sakhe ayikwazanga ukuceka, ngakho mina nje sekugcwele amatshe ku eyehlelayo entabeni. Scott lesikhumbuzo waba yanqoba Everest zabo (1996). Le nhlekelele baqhubeka ukubathena amandla elibuhlungu.

Ngalesi sikhathi umoya ngaphezulu lwaqina futhi iphuzu iqhwa ukubonakala elinganiselwe ngokoqobo nobude bengalo. Kulesi simo esinzima, iqembu abaqwali kusukela iqembu "consultant adventure" elahlekile, baphelelwa amabombo akhe. Babezama ukuthola indlela yabo ukuba Camp IV futhi zayiswa zifa kuze wawela neligwadulekile ngalona emaphethelweni precipice, ngenhlanhla, engakafiki ke elingamamitha ambalwa.

Kusukela ekufeni ezithile wabasindisa zonke Boukreev efanayo. I esingangeneki seqhwa lokudlela Wayethole okokuqandisa abaqwali bese uhudula ngamunye ngamunye wabo ekamu. Lesi siqephu kuchazwa ngokuningiliziwe kamuva Beydlman Nile - omunye walabo lucky ngokwanele ukubalekela ukufa, banqoba Everest (1996).

nenhlekelele

Anatoly bénza konke okusemandleni akhe. Ukusiza, wahluleka nje bobabili: Japanese Yasuko Namba ngalesosikhathi kakade kuyisimo esingenathemba, kanye nezinye ilungu leqembu, Withers, ulahlekile snowstorm, futhi ayikwazanga ukutholakala. Ngakusasa ekuseni efika ekamu, kodwa ulunywe kangaka kungekho muntu ethemba ukuthola umphumela omuhle. Wasinda, kodwa lapho indiza yakhe wayiswa esibhedlela, odokotela kwadingeka ukuba usinqume isandla sakhe sokunene yonke iminwe kwesokunxele ekhaleni. Yilokho amashwa zaphumela ukunyukela ka Everest (1996).

Le nhlekelele ngo-May 11 baqhubeka ngokugcwele ngosuku olulandelayo. Lapho yokugcina kwesokunxele abaqwali phezulu, uchungechunge Uvale ezimbili: Rob Hall nomngane wakhe Doug Hansen. Ngemva kwesikhashana kusuka Rob uthola umlayezo ezethusayo ukuthi Doug kwase ngaquleka. Ingabe bawadinga ngokuphuthumayo oxygen ne Umhlahlandlela "Consultants adventure" Andy Harris waya kuye ephethe ibhodlela.

Lapho enza lokho, Hansen wayesaphila, kodwa kumbulwa kwembeswa. Isimo nzima yokuthi iningi Rob-mpilo isilinda Umlawuli iced, futhi ayikwazanga ukuxhuma imaskhi. Ngemva ezinye isikhathi, kwafika usizo Harris ngokuzumayo zinyamalele e snowy ebumnyameni.

Esimisweni zokugcina umsakazo Rob Hall ukuthi abaqwali ezimbili zilaye ufile, futhi yena kungenxa frostbite eqinile cishe ezingenathemba. Le ndoda yabuza ukukhuluma umkakhe owayekhulelwe Dzhen Arnold, eyasala New Zealand. Ukutshela wakhe amagama ambalwa yenduduzo, uRob wake kuvaliwe umsakazo. Tragedy ku Everest ngo-1996 wathatha ukuphila kwale ndoda. Londoloza kuye kuhlulekile, futhi nambili kuphela izinsuku emzimbeni abandayo bethukile watholakala namanye amalungu bomkhankaso.

Tragedy ku Mount Everest ngo-1996 kwaba umphumela odabukisayo. "Intaba Madness" iqembu balahlekelwa ezincane, kodwa ngesikhathi olusuka phezulu ikhanda lakhe wabulawa Scott Fisher. Eyesibili ithimba - "consultant adventure" - ilahlekelwe abantu abane nje. Lawa kwakungamadodana: inhloko Rod Hall, ikhasimende lakhe njalo Dag Hansen, a umgibeli kanye instructor Andy Harris futhi lo msubathi Japanese Yasuko Namba, cha ehla impela kancane eKamu IV.

Izimbangela le nhlekelele

Namuhla, ngemva kweminyaka eminingi kusukela izenzakalo sad, ehlaziya izimbangela nhlekelele kakhulu emikhulu ezintabeni zaseHimalaya, ochwepheshe bafinyelela esiphethweni ukuthi kwakukhona eziningana. Ukunqoba eziphakeme entabeni okweqa namakhulu ayisishiyagalombili amamitha uphawu, uhlale okuyingozi, kodwa ngokwezinga layo kuxhomeke endleleni ngokuqinile ukugcina izimfuneko kubahlanganyeli ekhuphuka.

Esinye sezizathu, ngenxa okuyinto kwakukhona inhlekelele Everest (Meyi 1996), ngokuyinhloko waphawula ukwephula ezihlobene isheduli ephakamisa. Ngokuhambisana lohleliwe ngaphambili uhlelo, womabili la maqembu isiqalo ekhuphuka phakathi kobusuku 10 Meyi, kwadingeka ukuba ukufinyelela sekuzoqala yokhalo, futhi ngineminyaka engu-10 ekuseni ngo-May 11, ukuba phezulu aseNingizimu.

Ummango yokugcina iphuzu elifanayo - Mount Everest - kulindeleke ukuba avuke ntambama. Loluhlelo asizange sigcwaliseke, futhi kuyanda wayelulele emahoreni angu-16. Ukwephulwa sokucasuka uchungechunge lwezenzakalo kwesibhamu ezaholela ekufeni. Ukubusa "ngemuva schedule, ungalindeli enkingeni - ubuye!" Ingabe indiva.

Esinye sezizathu ukuthi kungani kwaba inhlekelele Everest ngoMeyi 1996, abacwaningi baye ngokuthi eziningi ukubambezeleka ngesikhathi okwenyuka. Ngokuya ukulikhuphuka bazitshela ukuthi Sherpas Lapsang futhi Rob aziphume ekamu ngaphambi kokuba wonke amalungu ethimba bese ufake intambo ukubiya eduze South Summit ukuphepha bezintaba. Abenzanga ngoba ekuhlaseleni engamamitha ukugula ngesikhathi omunye wabo. Lo msebenzi kwadingeka ukuba enze, futhi iziqondiso Boukreev Beydlmanu, okwaholela i ukubambezeleka ezengeziwe.

Ezokuphepha izimfa

Ngaphezu kwalokho, ukwanda kwe-abagqugquzeli enza suku ukwephulwa esobala imithetho yokuphepha. Iqiniso liwukuthi ngomhlaka 11 kuMrhayili kwavela namaqembu amathathu nje ukukhuphuka Everest. Usizi lokukhulelwa 1996 kwakwenzeka kakhulu ngoba ngalolo suku emithambekeni khona inombolo ngokweqile abaqwali, futhi phambi zokugcina, kunzima kakhulu esigabeni ephakamisa iphutha ukhokho.

Ngenxa yalokho, endaweni engamamitha 8500 amamitha, esimweni emoyeni rarefied kanye iziphonso ezibandayo, abantu ukhathele baphoqeleka ukuba ume emgqeni, emi emoyeni okokuqandisa. Ngemva kwalokho, ukuhlaziya izizathu ukuthi kuholele nhlekelele yenzeke ku-Everest ngo-1996, abagqugquzeli ukunyukela nezaba ithemba lokuthi inani elikhulu iqhaza Uyozikhipha lula ukubhekana nokukhumbula iqhwa emithambekeni ezijulile izikhukhula kanye nobunye ubunzima.

Umthelela yezinto zemvelo ku abaqwali

ukunyukela ngamunye, futhi ikakhulukazi lowo uzihlele, kumele wazi ukuthi endaweni engamamitha kakhulu, umzimba womuntu echayeke eziningi imithelela emibi. Phakathi kwabo, ukuntuleka komoya-mpilo kubangelwa enciphile umfutho womoya nesithwathwa, ngezinye izikhathi ukufinyelela ezingeni -75 ° C.

Yashubisa bakhathale kakhulu ngenxa oqeda wentaba, lezi izici eziholela kwenhliziyo, ukuphefumula, futhi ngezinye izikhathi ukuze hypothermia kanye hypoxia. Phansi kwalezi esinjalo, Umzimba ulahlekelwa ikhono alulame futhi ngakhula phambili umsebenzi ngokomzimba ukuze Ukuwohloka yayo ekugcineni. Lezi izingozi Everest. Usizi lokukhulelwa 1996, babedlala out amagquma ayo, isibe ubufakazi egqamile futhi edabukisayo ukuthi.

Njengoba umkhuba ubonisa, imbangela ehamba phambili yokufa of abaqwali emachibini okusezingeni eliphezulu yisona esikhulunywa abantu abaningi ubuchopho edema. He is ngenxa oxygen okuqukethwe eliphansi emoyeni futhi kuholela ukuba ukukhubazeka, ikhoma nokufa. Enye imbangela yokufa kule nemibandela emoyeni rarefied futhi lokushisa ongaphakeme libizwa edema yamaphaphu. Wayevame uphela ukuvuvukala, ukucinana kwemigudu yokuphefumula kanye nezimbambo waphuka.

Yokushodelwa umoya, usugublonny imithwalo eliphezulu, ngokuvamile okubangela isifo senhliziyo, ngokungabi bikho usizo lwezokwelashwa olusheshayo kungenza nasekufeni. Okukhulu ingozi kumuntu zaphambukela ezintabeni, futhi okungukuthi ubumpumputhe okubangelwa iqhwa gleam ecacile sezulu. It kuholela ezingozini, okufakazelwa ngumlayo Everest. Tragedy (1996), isithombe lapho abahlanganyeli Fanekisa lesi sihloko, wanikeza abacebile ngokwezinto ezibonakalayo ngoba ukuqonda yayo izimbangela kanye nokuthuthukiswa ukuphepha izinyathelo.

Ekugcineni, frostbite. Njengoba kuphawulwe ngenhla, emazingeni okushisa imitha namakhulu ayisishiyagalombili bavame ukulahla ukuba -75 ° C. Uma sicabanga ukuthi umoya ipheshulwa ukufinyelela 130 amakhilomitha ngehora, kuyacaca ukuthi hlobo luni ingozi empilweni zabantu kakhulu ngakho izimo zezulu.

Ngaphezu i kakhulu ezimbi nomthelela ngokomzimba isimo somuntu, zonke lezi zici kakhulu kahle nabantu sakhe sengqondo amandla. Lokhu kuthinta yesikhathi esifushane neyezinto eside inkumbulo, ukuzwakala engqondo, ikhono ngokwanele ukuhlola isimo futhi, ngenxa yalokho, kukwenza kungenzeki ukuba enze izinqumo ezifanele.

Ukuze sikhuthaze ukumelana somzimba esebenza ezicini yakhe edikibalisayo, wayekwenza acclimatization. Nokho, kulesi simo, isimiso lakhe lalingezwakali iphazamiseke. Isizathu kwaba ukubambezeleka ukufakwa eziphakeme emakamu ukuqeqeshwa eliphansi amalungu lokuyoshumayela. Njengoba singabona kusukela izinkumbulo yabo, abaningi abazange bazi ukuthi ungasabalalisa kahle amabutho futhi, befuna abasindise yabonisa ukuzindela engenabulungisa kuyanda.

Izimo zezulu kanye yokushodelwa umoya

abaqwali abanolwazi bayazi ukuthi ngisho ukulungiselelwa ngokucophelela kakhulu bomkhankaso akuyona isiqinisekiso sempumelelo yayo. Okuningi kuxhomeke ekutheni wena lucky ne sezulu. Everest futhi indawo lapho ushintsha ngejubane breakneck. Kungakapheli isikhathi esifushane inguquko kusuka ngosuku olucwathile libalele ukuze isichotho seqhwa, nxazonke laligcwele inkungu njengomuzi ongangeneki.

Lokhu ngilokho kanye okwenzeka ngalolo suku kwesibhamu, Meyi 11, 1996. inhlekelele Everest Kwagqashuka kakhudlwana futhi ngoba, lapho abaqwali sasinda ngokulambisa injabulo ukufinyelela phezulu, ukwehla waqala, isimo sezulu sawohloka kakhulu. Isivunguvungu Seqhwa futhi isiphepho esikhulu seqhwa kakhulu kungagcini ukubonakala, futhi ezifihlakele izimpawu okubonisa indlela Camp IV. Ngenxa yalokho, iqembu abaqwali walahleka, izimpawu zendawo alahlekile.

ISiphepho imimoya, ijubane okuyinto ngalolo suku safinyelela 130 amakhilomitha ngehora, futhi yesithwathwa ezinzima hhayi kuphela engozini abantu akhukhulwe kwalasha, kodwa futhi kwaholela ekubeni umfutho womoya. Ngenxa yalokho, yawa okuqukethwe oxygen lomoya. Wafinyelela 14%, okuyinto kakhulu esebenzisa isihluku lesi simo. Lokhu okuhlushwa abayifuna ukusetshenziswa ngokushesha umoya-mpilo, amasilinda, okuyinto ngaleso sikhathi lase siqedwe ngokuphelele. Lokhu kwakha isimo esibucayi. Kube usongo nokulahlekelwa ukwazi, edema yamaphaphu futhi ngokufa okusondelayo.

Ukuntuleka kwama-cylinder - bug ukugibela abagqugquzeli ukuthi tando cha thethelela Everest. Inhlekelele ye-1996, kwakusekhona okunye ngoba ezinye alelo bandla kwakukhona abantu ungakulungele, kahle ngokudlulisela emoyeni rarefied. Esikhathini nesikhathi anaso acclimatization ukulala nge-oksijini amathangi, okuyinto kakhulu anda ukusetshenziswa yabo. Ngaphezu kwalokho, kudingeka inqwaba ukuze kusindiswe Ngawang Sherpa, bashiye ukuphakama.

Ingozi abacathama indlela wokuhweba izintaba

Futhi esinye isici esibaluleke oholele umcimbi ngeshwa Meyi 11, 1996. Le nhlekelele phezu Mount Everest, ngokwezinga elithile umphumela inzuzo izintaba, ezaqala ngo-nineties. Kwabe sekufika ngokushesha futhi zakhiwa isakhiwo yakhelwe kuphela ukuzuza isifiso amakhasimende ukubamba iqhaza ekunqotshweni yeziqongo. + Abanaso ukudlala indima iyiphi izinga lokuqeqeshwa kulaba bantu, noma ubudala babo noma isimo somzimba.

Into esemqoka yayizokhokhelwa ukuba lemali edingekayo. Endabeni "Intaba ubuhlanya" futhi "Consultants adventure", eseneminyaka engamashumi ayisithupha nanhlanu dollar ayinkulungwane. Intengo kuhlanganisa imisebenzi iziqondiso professional kanye izindleko ukudla, imishini, ukudiliva ekamu base wokugada kuya isiqongo sentaba.

Ngemva kwalokho, omunye iziqondiso wavuma ukuthi amakhasimende beniyingxenye "iNtaba Yokuhlangana Madness", ayothatha ungakulungele ngakho ngoba ummango, wayeqiniseka kusengaphambili ukwehluleka, futhi, nokho, wawahola futhi ukuphakama ongayithola kuphela abasubathi abanolwazi. Ngaleyo ndlela engozini izimpilo hhayi kuphela izivakashi, kodwa nabo bonke labo wahambisana nabo. Ngesikhathi ukuphakama isiphambeko oyedwa kungaholela kokufa lonke iqembu. Ingxenye yendlela kwenzeka. Tragedy ku Everest (1996), elimalungu alo yizisulu ekuhwebeni - ubufakazi obuphathekayo balokho.