Yves Saint Laurent: biography ye-couturier enkulu

Eyaziwa ngokuba ngumklami womhlaba wonke u-Yves Saint Laurent, owaziwa ngegama lakhe limelela indlela eya empumelelweni eya empumelelweni, kwaba njengoba bekusho, isithandwa somphumela. Emkhakheni wokuklama, wafinyelela phezulu.

Isifundazwe esihlakaniphile

Cishe cishe yonke into iyaziwa ngombuso nomthetho wezakhiwo. "Umculi wesifazane", umsunguli wesitayela se-unisex - yiziphi iziqu kuphela ezazinikezwa ngekhulu lakhe le-Yves Saint Laurent leminyaka elibukhali, owaziwa ngalo ngo-1936 futhi waphela ngo-2008. Umklami wesikhathi esizayo wazalwa e-Orane (e-Algeria, ngaleso sikhathi i-colony yaseFrance), emndenini ohloniphekile . Kodwa, okubaluleke kakhulu, wayenebudlelwane obuhloniphayo nobudlelwane. Uthando nobungane kusukela eminyakeni yokuqala kwakuzungezwe nguYves Saint Laurent. I-biography yenkosi enkulu ibonisa ukuthi wayenomthelela omkhulu ekuphileni kwabangane bakhe kunezitha zakhe.

I-Violator Family Traditions

Kusukela ezizukulwaneni ngezizukulwane emndenini waseLaurent, amadoda ayephethe izikhundla zomthetho, kanti-ke, indlela efanayo yayilindelwe u-Willow omncane, othanda ukudweba ngaphezu kwanoma yini emhlabeni, futhi ikakhulukazi ukwakha nokudweba izingubo zokugqoka zamadonki odade ababili abasebasha. Umama wakwazi ukubona okuthile emidwebo yendodana yakhe, ngazo zonke izindlela asekelwa le ndlela yokuzilibazisa, futhi ngemuva kokushiya esikoleni e-Oran bahamba ndawonye ngo-1953 eParis. Ngezizinikele isikhathi sokujwayele ukuthokozisa kokuphila komasipala, i-couturier ezayo ingena esikoleni esakhiwe yi- High Fashion Syndicate . Izifundo "high couture" uhambela okungaphezu kokuzithandela, lapha ufunda futhi uthola ithuba lokubamba iqhaza emncintiswaneni, owahlelwa yi-International Wool Syndicate.

I-muses eyintandokazi

Akuyona yini inhlanhla emangalisayo lapho umuntu oneminyaka engu-17 ubudala emncintiswaneni wemfashini wezwe emncintiswaneni onomthwalo wemfanelo ethatha indawo yokuqala? Ngembatho encane yamnyama ntambama noma indwangu yokugqoka, eyaba yinye yamakhadi ebhizinisi ohlakaniphileyo wezemfashini, yadalwa nguye kanye ngo-1953.

U-Yves Saint Laurent, owaziwa ngaye ogcwele imizwa emangalisayo, kusukela kulo mzuzu ophawulekayo uba udumo emhlabeni jikelele. Mayelana naye kuvela isihloko se-laudatory emagazini ethi "Vok", ehambisana nemidwebo yesifundazwe esincane. Emncintiswaneni, umdwebi we-artist-fashion wathuma izithombe ezintathu ezanqoba ijaji.

Eminyakeni emibili kamuva, uLaurent ubambe iqhaza komunye umncintiswano - "Woolmark." Futhi lapha imisebenzi yakhe yanikezwa umklomelo wokuqala, kodwa uyabelana nomunye ohlakaniphile osemusha - uKarl Lagerfeld. Abanye abacwaningi bokuphila nobuciko bukaLaurent bakholelwa ukuthi kwakungenxa yalesi sikhathi lapho ubungane-ukuphikisana phakathi kwababameli ababili abakhulu befashini yomhlaba kuqala. Mhlawumbe, ngenxa yalo mncintiswano, bobabili bafinyelele emazingeni aphezulu e-Olympic ebhizinisini labo.

Ukuqala komsebenzi omuhle kakhulu

Ngemuva kwalesi senzakalo, uChristian Dior uqobo ucela uLaurent kumuntu odumile "iNdlu yeDior", lapho uYves Saint Laurent asebenza khona phakathi neminyaka ka 1955-1957. I-biography, ukuphila komuntu siqu, ubuciko bentsha buyathakazelisa umphakathi jikelele. Ukuze impumelelo yakhe iqale ukulandela abalandeli nabathengisi bezemfashini. UDior umenza abe ngumsizi wakhe. Ukubambisana kwabo kwakunenzuzo kakhulu, naphezu kokuthi umnini we "Dom Dior" wayehlose kakhulu kubantu besifazane abaneminyaka ephakathi, noLaurent - esemusha.

Ngo-1957, uDior wafa ngokuzumayo, kanti uLaurent eneminyaka engu-21 waba umqondisi womkhiqizo ovelele. Ngo-1958, iqoqo lokuqala elithi "Trapezia", okwenza i-furore emhlabeni jikelele, lashicilelwa. Izingubo ezimfushane ze-trapezoidal zamukelwa eziningi. "Ubuhle obuhle" - ngakho umcibisholo wabiza isitayela esisha, umlobi wawo owayenguYves Saint Laurent. I-biography, izithombe, imininingwane yokuphila okusondelene akuveli emakhasini amaphephandaba.

Black band

Kodwa kwakunezikhathi ekuphileni kwesikhangisi kanye nezikhathi ezinzima. Wadluliselwa ebuthweni futhi wathunyelwa e-Afrika. Ama-horror of war, inhlangano ephilile ka-Laurent yenhlangano , ebhekene nobuhle obucashile, ayikwazanga ukuyenza. Odokotela abanesifo esiqinile kunazo zonke zesibhedlela sezempi baphathwa ngezindlela zokuthula nokudambisa. Ngesikhathi esifanayo, isikhundla somqondisi weNdlu kaDeor sikhethwe ngokungemthetho ngomunye umuntu. U-Laurent uqala futhi uyinqobe . Ukhokhwa isigwebo sama-700,000 ama-francs. Ukunqoba abaphula umthetho akuzange kukhishwe yi-couturier kusuka ekucindezelekeni okujulile okungokomoya.

Nenhlanhla futhi

UPierre Berger weza usizo, ngosizo luka-1961, ngemali yaseMelika uMark Robins, "uYves Saint-Laurent" evuliwe, umnikazi wakhe ugcwele uYves Saint Laurent. I-biography ye-couturier enkulu ayizange iqedwe ngokuzibulala, imizamo eyenziwe ngokuphindaphindiwe. Kusukela kulo mzuzu, u-Yves Saint Laurent uqala impilo entsha egcwele impumelelo yokudala - ubambe iqhaza izitayela ezintsha eziphikisana nokuthambekela okukhona. Umcibisholo umbiza ngokuthi i-anarchist kusuka kumfashini.

Wenza ukuhlolwa okuqinile - phakathi kwama-mannequins avela amantombazane anekhanda elimnyama, uLoverrent wethula amapantsuthi abesifazane, izambatho ze-safari nezembatho ezibonakalayo.

Ukuphakama okusha nokuqashelwa okufanele

I-brand "YSL" iba i-archipopular, futhi ngo-1964 ithela amafutha okubizwa ngokuthi "Y". Ama-tuxedos abesifazana, athulwe ngaye ngo-1966, angenye yekhadi lakhe lokubiza. Imivuzo eyengeziwe yawela ngokulandelana, futhi umbuso weYves Saint Laurent uba mkhulu, uthatha zonke izimboni ezintsha.

Iqoqo ngesitayela sokufihla, elikhishwe nguye phakathi kweMpi YeVietnam, laletha umbhali we-Oscar wokuqala nokuqashelwa kwamazwe ngamazwe. Wethula isitayela se-dandy ne-female "Opium" ephakamisa uLaurent ekuphakameni okungenakufinyeleleka - nguyedwa kuphela wabo bonke abakhiqizi befashini abasebenza ngokuzinikela embukisweni wokuphila eMetropolitan Museum, okwalandela ngo-1985 omunye u-Oscar, manje Umsebenzi ophumelelayo futhi wesikhathi eside emazweni omfashini.

Imisindo yakhe yayinguCatherine Deneuve noMaya Plisetskaya. Yisho okuhle kumklami omkhulu ngezwe lemfashini ngo-2002. Esikhathini sesiteji sePompidou Center, iqoqo lakhe lwakamuva libonisiwe. Ngaphambi kokuzalwa kuka-72, ngo-2008 i-Yves Saint Laurent omkhulu, i-biography, impilo yomuntu siqu, isithombe sakhe, njengeqoqo lakhe elidumile, lisatholakala kakhulu, lafa. Esithombeni esingezansi umklami uthathwe nge-muses akhe amabili. Ukuqeda imiphumela yomsebenzi omatasa futhi ophumelelayo njengoba umklami angasebenza njengengqungquthela yakhe edumile ukuthi kulokhu kuphila uyazisola kuphela ukuthi akazange afike nge jeans.